Hitchhikers on the big seas.

I had a recent opportunity to navigate a friends sailboat during his tag sail in order to earn his skipper designation through Club Nautique. Back on a Beneteau. Or maybe it was a Jeanneau. I don’t remember. I just don’t care for those boats. At all. The camaraderie and friendships, however, as well as the magnificent opportunities to experience a few new things and challenges proved invaluable.

Navigating is an essential part of every journey on a sailboat. It is also one of my favorites. I enjoy the opportunity to use official charts (while they last) along with the necessary planning tools. I’m a big fan of parallel rulers. Calipers, pencils, a sharpener, and a good handheld compass, coupled with the vessels fathometer , knotmeter, log, and compass round our my tools.

One of the most remarkable aspects of the trip related to our sail to the Farallon islands located about 25 nautical miles offshore. Been there… done that. On this occasion, however, we were able to get closer to the islands than I have ever ventured. In fact, we sailed into the little harbor that exists for marine biologists, and that was the landing for those who used to maintain the lighthouse on the big rock.

Farallones are actually three groupings of several islands…North, Middle, and SouthEast. They are located in the waters known as the largest great white shark breeding ground in the world. They used to be a frequent destination in the mid-1800s by poachers he would travel to the island and collected eggs of seabirds and then return to San Francisco and sell them in the markets. They were a sought- after delicacy. The lighthouse, of course, served to warm Mariners of the dangers in the vicinity.

I said rocks…. as that’s what they are. I’m not sure there’s any greenery. except, perhaps, for the seaweed in the tidal areas. Huge, jagged rocks. Worn by the sea and the wind. Serving as a respite for sea lions, seals tens of thousands of seabirds, and more. It was incredible to be so close. The noise of all of the wildlife reminded me of the noise of a professional football stadium filled to capacity.

Approaching the South Farallons.
GGB in the distance 12 miles out to sea.
In the harbor. Sea lions!
Water fowl on the rocks. Noooo thanks to the idea of harvesting eggs. I just can imagine that excursion ending well!

There was some talk on the vessel about encircling the islands. I vetoed the idea even though the weather may have permitted a circumnavigation as I saw breakers in the sea on the side where the water shoals. This is particularly dangerous and the area has claimed the lives of sailboat racers who cut corners over the shoal to save time. For detailed information about a recent tragedy check out the link below.

https://www.latitude38.com/lectronic/looking-back-on-low-speed-chase-tragedy/

Looking Back on Low Speed Chase Tragedy

Well. Hitchhikers. We were boarded by thousands of pesky flies just as we turned to depart the Islands en route to Drakes Bay at Point Reyes. We navigated, sailed, and swatted flies. Those things are quick! By the time we reached the Point Reyes anchorage we had only a few hundred flies to contend with. What a nuisance!

The anchorage is in the vicinity of CG that marks the location of a Coast Guard mooring buoy. It’s nice to be tucked in and in a wind and sea shadow.

The night was remarkably uneventful. I slept well. The scenery in the region was spectacular.

The next morning after breakfast we rafted together with two other vessels from Club Nautique. That was fun.

Next, we headed southward three miles out to sea along the coast. Our plan was to finish off the flies and to duck into Bolinas Bay for lunch. We accomplished all of our tasks.

Interestingly, our helmsman lost use of one of the two wheels on the vessel. New boat. Broken steering system. We were able to anchor. One of the other boats rafted to us. Fortunately, one of the sailors on that vessel owned an identical vessel and knew every inch of the type of vessel. He was remarkably able to complete a repair in the midst of upside down boat yoga positions.

Rafted up for repairs. And Lunch!

Afterwards, we sailed down the coast in the Bonita channel, around Point Bonita, through through the Golden Gate, under the bridge, and then into Richardson’s Bay and to the docks.

It was a superb three days on the vessel. Best of all….my friend passed! He complete the program through Coastal Passagemaking and is now a bonafide Skipper! Congratulations Dan!

2 thoughts on “Hitchhikers on the big seas.

  1. Good you’re still sailing & writing, Lewis –

    Enjoyed your recent piece on your sail to the Farallons & Pt. Reyes, two of my favorite destinations & training cruise trips. Prior to my Singlehanded Transpac, most of my ocean cruising experience was that often nasty 27 miles between the Gate & S.E. Farallon that I’ve done 25+ times as a taxi driver for seabird ornithologists for the Oceanic Society & Pt. Reyes Bird Observatory (now called Point Blue Conservation). Some sage sailor has observed the the kidney-shaped area that includes the Gulf of the Farallon has some of the nastiest weather in the world. Although I’ve had some pretty benign, windless trips (1979 Singlehanded Farallons Race – 15 hrs, DNF!) but the beginning of my SSS Transpac was 2 1/2 days of lumpy, 25+k & pea soup fog! Sounds like you’ve been pretty lucky so far!

    Mike

    P.S. Kate and I are currently on the first of many 3-month jaunts of living on a trawler at Point San Pablo Harbor while we collect stories for our upcoming podcast called onceuponabay.org (Google to see our blog journal). We’ll be focusing on the Bay’s natural history, its health, the people who care for it, and the connection between place and culture. Our mission is to produce more Bay advocates! Come see us at the Harbor. We’ll be here through Nov.

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    1. Great to hear from you. Hope all is well. Sounds like you’re on a very important adventure these days! Things are crazy busy here. Reach out to me before you leave town if I haven’t found you by then.

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